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Sunday,
Dec 1, 2002
With an early start
we headed to Kilmainham Gaol, the old jail in Dublin, setting
for one of the saddest episodes in Irish history. The weather
was overcast, cold and windy, with rain just waiting in the
sidelines to make its entrance; fitting weather for our
destination. The bus dropped us off in front of a thick stone
building with a single massive black door that looks like it
will swallow you and never let you go. The tour took us around
the jail, starting on the East Wing, or the "new"
wing. Built during Victorian times, it was meant to be a more
humane setting for the prisoners, and it only seems that way
when compared to the older parts of the jail. The roof used to
be all glass, though parts have been covered with wood for
protection (see the photo below). While we followed our guide,
we could all hear a gut-wrenching wailing all around us, the
bona fide cry of a banshee. It had everyone on edge, and when
we finally asked the guard she compared it to a banshee as
well. The wind gets through the wood and the old glass panes,
making the awful sound, but in this jail, it is easy to
believe that it is a banshee indeed crying for those who
perished here.
Kilmainham
Gaol's "new" Victorian wing was
supposed to provide a humane environment for the
prisoners. Compared to the old area, this wing was a paradise.
Dec. 1, 2002
The tour took us to
the old chapel, where we saw a video on the Easter Rising and
the fate of the leaders, all of whom were executed at this
jail. Heartwrenching was the story of Joseph Plunkett and
Grace Gifford: Plunkett was one of the captured at the Rising,
and sentenced to death at the jail. He had been engaged to Ms.
Gifford to be wed later the same week as the Rising. On the
night before his execution, Joseph and Grace were married in
the little chapel at midnight. They were given 10 minutes
alone, and at 3:30 am that same day, May 5, 1916, he was
executed. Grace never married again. A sad story on any day,
to learn about this as we are celebrating our honeymoon filled
us with sadness without end; all we could do was hold on to
each other as we walked out.
Next we were taken
to the old jail wing, where the cells make street latrines
look like palaces. From here we went out to the work
courtyards, making our way to the most remote of them, where
the executions took place.
Commemorative
plaque to the martyrs of the Easter
Rebellion in the work courtyard in which all were executed.
Dec. 1, 2002
It is a place filled
with pathos. Here the greatest leaders the independence
movement had were all cut down in one fell swoop, but also
here was born the desire to finally be free. It was here that
the camel's back broke, culminating six years later in 1921
with Ireland's independence.
These men
shall forever be remembered in the history of Ireland. Their
death was a
great loss, but it kick-started the process that eventually
led to the independence of Ireland.
Dec. 1, 2002
We left the jail
drained of energy. There was so much sadness in those rocks.
The wind and rain seemed to echo our mood, and we were
suddenly very glad we had chosen to do the next destination
after the jail. We were headed to the Guinness Brewery, just
down the road.
In Ireland if you
ask for beer you get Guinness, period. It's not so much a
drink as it is a way of life, part of being Irish, and they
are fiercely proud of their stout. The brewery at St. James's
Gate is the old brewery, turned now into an exhibition that
makes Arthur Guinness into a wizard, an alchemist who spurned
the search for the philosopher's stone in favor of the search
for the perfect stout, giving Ireland a gift of happiness in a
barrel, can or bottle. It is extremely sensationalistic, but a
whole lot of fun. You do get to see the process, from the
choosing of the ingredients, all the way to the packaging--old
and modern--and the world-famous marketing campaigns. It is
all topped by a cold pint of the Black Stuff at the top of the
exhibition, the gravity bar, where one can see an awesome view
of Dublin while drinking the wonderful gift of the gods and
Arthur Guinness.
Danny at
the Guinness Brewery exhibition. Mmm... Guinness.
Dec. 1, 2002
To you, Mister Sir
Arthur Guinness... slainte!!!
Danny
& Yvette outside the Guinness Brewery.
Dec. 1, 2002
After this we went
souvenir shopping at Carol's right across O'Connell Bridge,
and then to dinner at Juice, another vegetarian restaurant (it
was ok, a bit too pricey, and not as good as Cornucopia).
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Dublin, next page (3)
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